Venice changes a lot with the seasons. These are the dates that mark the Venetian year; for the big events, book well ahead.
Winter
Fog on the lagoon, low light, fewer visitors: for many people this is Venice at its best. It is also the acqua alta season. Carnival fills the city with masks in the two weeks before Lent, in February or early March depending on the year.
Spring
The Biennale opens around May and runs until November: art in even years, architecture in odd years, with exhibitions and pavilions all over the city. Around the same time comes the Festa della Sensa, when Venice renews its marriage with the sea, and the Vogalonga, when thousands of rowing boats cover thirty kilometres of the lagoon.
Summer
Long warm days and evenings outdoors in the campi. On the third weekend of July comes the Redentore, the Venetians’ favourite festival: on Saturday night there are fireworks over St Mark’s Basin, watched from boats and fondamente. At the end of August the Film Festival starts on the Lido.
Autumn
On the first Sunday of September the Regata Storica fills the Grand Canal with historical boats and races. October brings golden light and milder days. On 21 November, for the Madonna della Salute, a temporary bridge of boats crosses the Grand Canal to the basilica.
Carnival, the Redentore, the Regata Storica, the opening week of the Biennale and the Film Festival are the busiest times of the year: if you want to come then, book early.